Saturday, February 03, 2007

10 things and the end

Well that's about the size of it! I am sitting in the Qantas VIP lounge as I type this entry whilst waiting for the plane to Sydney then home to some 40 degree Adelaide heat! I have many more pictures, sights and stories I could share with you all including some fun in Ocean Park, Macau and Singapore but that will have to be in person in the right place at the right time.


The pictures above are of the 10,000 Buddah Monastary in Sha Tin - which I went to one Sunday instead of church. This place literally has 10,000 (although I didn't count them so they could be telling a fib) representations of Buddah in various guises and forms.

This one is one of my faves. Such skinny legs! And check out the happy swordfish next to him!

Ten Things I Noticed About Hong Kong
  1. There are hardly any pigeons in Hong Kong. (mmm ... i know what you're all thinking ... so don't go there!)
  2. Everyone seems to drive a new car.
  3. The KFC coleslaw is nicer, less sweet and contains purple cabbage.
  4. Whilst you might think you are waiting in a loose line, as soon as a tram comes, it's on for one and all!
  5. 20 degrees celcius is cold according to Honk Kong natives.
  6. There are at least 10 Macdonald's Restaurants within a 5 minute walking distance from my apartment (and no i haven't been to all of them!!!)
  7. Canto pop style cover versions of Leo Sayer's timeless hit "I Love You More Than I Can Say" are very popular with the locals and is subsequently a kareoke standard.
  8. Whilst performances usually start 10-15 minutes after the advertised time, people still arrive up to 20 minutes after the show has started properly.
  9. Hong Kong television is shockingly bad.
  10. The traffic amber light goes on in between the red / green sequence as well as the green / red.

Finally here are some street markers from Hong Kong they are everywhere if you look closely. I became slightly obsessed taking pictures of them and I think I have about 40 pictures which I will eventually put together in a big photo collage for my lounge room wall one day.

It's been a blast doing this Asialink thing I must say and I have made some wonderful friends and contacts along the way. It's something I will never forget and hopefull build upon someday.

Cheers till the next residency or the next time I decide to blog.

Steve

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Tea


As promised here are my favourite teas in Hong Kong.

Nai Cha – (milk tea) is an extremely strongly brewed black tea strained through a sock or stocking like sieve and made in the little eateries that populate the streets. It is made with tinned evaporated milk and if left too long to cool will form a skin on the top – so it is best to drink it quickly. Now I like my tea strong with only a dash of milk but I’ve discovered the Chinese are onto something here. The tea is smooth but certainly has a tannin kick!


Chinese Tea comes in many varieties but this one, made at a Beijing Dumpling eatery in Wan Chai that I have been known to frequent many times, is the king! If you don’t mind picking the occasional foliage from your teeth it’s great to get the mild under brewed taste first and then build up to the strong gunpowder kick as each large and roughly cut leaf and stalk sinks to the bottom.

A Quick Opinion Of The Arts In Hong Kong

Whilst I have seen only a few theatre and dance performances in HK, none of them have really blown my mind so I haven’t gone out of my way to see anything further for the sake of feeling angry, disappointed or just bored. A lot of the theatre I have witnessed are modern adaptations of European classic novels or plays (re: Gogol, Checkov & Kafka), some shocking, some OK but nothing out of the ordinary. I have been truly disappointed that there is not a big push to develop truly original and new work here.

I almost went to see a Cantonese version of Sarah Kane’s “4:48 Psychosis” and “Crave” but I thought against it not because there was no English translation provided but the publicity material was so obviously full of suicidal angst and morbidity it led me to believe that the realisation would be exactly that – something I don’t think Kane’s work needs any extra layers of, believe me!

When it comes to theatre set design in HK everything seems to be over designed with a distinct 1980’s new wave flavour – even down to the lurid fluoro eye make up. They also like things falling from the ceiling or fly tower – I think every performance I have seen has had something, whether it be balls, petals, paper, fake snow, buckets, you name it if they can; they will make fall from the sky.

For a large city, theatre seasons are surprisingly short in HK (no more than 4 or 5 performances) and patronage is quite small.

The most outstanding performance I have seen was by a bunch of 3rd year dance students at the HK Academy of Performing Arts, directed and choreographed by ex Leigh Warren and Dancers / ADT dancer John Utans. The visual language was rich and dense and the final stage picture whilst a long time coming was worth the wait.

What I have enjoyed and been inspired by however is the breadth of visual arts and design on offer.


As the industrialist and entrepreneurs set up their assembly lines north of the border (China) Visual Artists are taking over vacant industrial buildings (pictured) such as those in Fotan (an outer area of HK) by turning unused storage facilities into studios. Around 100 artists and 28 studios jointly organised a couple of open weekends in this area and I ventured out to see what was going down.


The exhibition pictured was curated by Parasite – an excellent city based gallery – who called for large work to be screen printed onto vinyl banner material – they displayed these huge works (most were over 3m x 3m) strapped to bamboo poles in the tiniest of rooms and made a maze out the works for the audience to encounter. The work and presentation encompassed such a unique Hong Kong visual style with the use of cheap advertising materials along with the printing, the oversized banners and the bamboo all strong icons of buildings and development here.



HK is the place to come to get cheap fabrication. As an example these light boxes I helped design with ex HK now London based artist Lisa Cheung cost about $AUS130 each to get made. We placed them about the Fringe Club for the City Festival to visually connect various public thoroughfares.


Another touching work I encountered was one done by secondary school students in collaboration with some professional artists for the final days of a little Wan Chai street called “Lee Tung Street”. As mentioned in one of my previous posts there is increasing public concern here over the rapid demolition of anything under 50 years old and the Star Ferry Terminal, which was demolished just before Christmas has ignited these concerns even more. Lee Tung Street or Wedding Card Street – so named as the street once housed many stationery businesses is up for “Urban Renewal” which probably means a large high rise office tower complete with a shopping mall. This simple projection work used the whole street as it’s canvas with many shop windows and entrances becoming places for the projection of photographs taken by students from many local schools. The vacant residential abodes above the shops, their windows taped with crosses were lit with Par-cans highlighting the mid 20th century architecture. This ghost street by day was turned into a simple statement on architectural and personal heritage and past-present memory.


Last weekend I went to an open day at Victoria Prison. The prison is slap bang in the middle of the city and housed its last prisoner as recently as March 2006. Since then there’s been a hot debate as to what to do with it, and whether it should be knocked down for… (yes you guessed it again) a high rise office tower complete with a shopping mall! As a part of the open day many local visual artists were invited to install a work in a cell. Obviously the works revolved around the theme of incarceration and the law and impounded significantly on the already pervading feeling of isolation and imminent mental collapse.


Here’s me donned with a hood in one of the installations pretending to be a criminal for 10 seconds.


Thursday, January 11, 2007

Let's Go Dutch

It would be a massive understatement to say that I haven’t been eating well whilst here in Hong Kong.

I have tried so many interesting foods like…

  • Spicy Crab (and I don’t usually eat crab but this was delectable)
  • Sea Snails (in a beautiful spicy sauce)
  • Snake Soup (it actually tastes like chicken)
  • Century Egg (blackened boiled eggs that look rotten but actually are quite nice once you get over the rotten factor – I have had them twice! – but can only stomach one at a time).

I have also gotten used to silken tofu – which I never thought I would.

Dim Sum, is of course, a great way to eat with friends and I have been to some fine establishments such as Luk Yu Tea House where the egg tarts were to die for.


One Saturday I was taken to Maxims for a long Dim Sum session (4-5 hours) by Catherine (Administrator at the Fringe Club). She has shown me to some great eateries – that I have become a regular since. My favourite selection of Dim Sum includes Cold Roast Pork with crackling and a mustard dipping (pictured) sauce that is just devine. Char Siew Bao are the pork buns and they come in two sorts of pastry, short and flaky, and steamed and dense …both delicious. The chicken feet (pictured) … are just a bit bony and soft for my liking and I think they should be more crispy like the end of a chicken wing … but hey it’s chicken and those that know me well …


One of my absolute favourite places to eat are the Dai Pai Dong at the bottom of Stanley Street, Central. Dai Pai Dong literally means Big Cooking Place – they are situated out side in a closed off street and the food is prepared and cooked right there in front of you. They are actually quite small but they are also very cheap and serve great Black Bean Squid, Sweet and Sour Pork, Hot Pots, Fried Fish, you name it, it’s all good.


Finally there are the desert restaurants (yes Aaron – this part’s for you). After filling yourself up with all sorts of savoury goodness you then go off to a place like Lucky Desert (Wan Chai) or Honeymoon Desert (Central) and keep eating. The deserts are mostly fruit and sago based and again are mixed with interesting tastes and textures. From clockwise left:
  1. Grass Jelly with Mixed Fruits (the grass jelly has a slight herbaceous and medicinal taste but when mixed with melons and mango quite refreshing)
  2. Strawberry Pudding, Mango Pudding and Mango Sago Soup (the puddings are drizzled with a thin sweet milk which makes for an even creamier taste),
  3. Glutinous Rice Mango Balls (a piece of mango surrounded with glutinous rice and covered with coconut – a sort of mango lamington – the perfect combination of refreshing fruit with a little weight from the rice),
  4. Mango Pancakes – again mango (you can also get it in banana and durian flavours) surrounded by a light cream and then a thin heavily coloured pancake layer. The cream is not heavy and overly sweet making way for the original taste of the fruits.

So there you go some taste sensations…next time I intend to take you through some of the wonderful teas they have on offer here.

More soon
Steve

Monday, January 08, 2007

2 Lower Albert Rd, Central


… is the address of the Hong Kong Fringe Club where I am doing my residency. It was once an old ice factory where they used to keep ice for the rich people who lived in the mid levels (up the hills / and The Peak). They also used to keep milk and cream there as well. In WW2 they used it to keep dead soldiers bodies in before they were buried. It now is and has been for the past 20 years a place for the arts.

The building houses 2 theatres, 1 rehearsal room, 3 galleries, 2 restaurants, 3 (very small) offices, a techs room + it has a great roof top garden where I eat great vegetarian and meat curries most lunchtimes as it’s free for staff. On Saturday’s and Sunday’s they serve an all day breakfast, which is also a treat as well.

The place employs approximately 24 staff with about 50% of them just concerned with the Food and Beverage services the club runs. I am positioned in the ground floor office (a small and cosy affair) where we work hard but also have a lot of fun.


Here’s Jackie, Tracey, Savita, Gina, Christian, Simon and I celebrating our Christmas cracker gifts and enjoying Haighs chocolates (which I supplied) and Simon in the middle being Harry Potter ... well ... sort of.

We are about to stage a two week long festival in this building which starts on January 11th. We had a press launch on December 11th, which I helped out on … here’s some photos.


Here’s a link to a you-tube sequence of the press launch – which I also worked on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAFRcPoFcPg

More Soon
Steve xxx

NYE'06|NYD'07


New Years Eve was spent with Gina and her friend Sinclair. They are both from Singapore and Gina is one of the interns from LaSalle College SIA doing her arts management placement at the Fringe Club – Sinclair works in theatre and dance and was visiting HK for a couple of weeks and is one of Gina’s close friends.

We had a nice Korean meal then walked to Lan Kwai Fong which was stuffed full of drunk gweilos (non asian people) so we scurried down a side street to what has become one of my favourite little haunts “The Baby Buddah”. It was empty when we got there at 8.30pm and began our vodka intake for the night. “The Baby Buddah”, introduced to me by Eric, is a little inside / outside bar and it was truly the best place to be in Hong Kong on New Years Eve; it wasn’t crowded at any time throughout the night, there were great beats playing, and we were close to the gweilo crowd so we could hear the countdown and Auld Lang Syne being played on the bagpipes by some Chinese dudes dressed in kilts (cultural confusion kicks in right about now).

It was great to get your texts and talk to all of you on New Years Eve.

New Years Day involved getting over a slight vodka head with a fry up of omlette and bacon from a 24/7 fry up joint down the road and then going to see Casino Royal – which was perfect fodder for a dullish brain – then off to see Eric who had returned that prior evening from little ol’ Adelaide.

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

Mayhew In China

After the Christmas Day hiccup I managed to “pop over to China” (Xi’an to be exact) for four days.


On the first day I ventured out to the muslim quarter which was just across the road from my hotel room with my new camera and had the best and cheapest plate of noodles ever!


On the second day I braved chilling conditions and went on a tour to the terracotta warriors. They were quite amazing but I think I more amazed with the grand structures and buildings surrounding the archaeological pits. I mean how do they know there’s nothing else hiding underneath these structures? I was also amazed by a two hour traffic jam that our bus had become embroiled in along the way – we took a detour from the main highway as it was closed due to (more) fog and so had everybody else! Four to five lanes going in one direction with another two going in the other along a dirt road that was capable of holding two lanes at best. Chaos inevitably ensued.


The terracotta warriors are omnipresent in Xi'an and it seems they are also up with the latest fashion.


On the third day I went to Huashan (180kms west of Xi’an) and climbed Mt Hua and it’s numerous Taoist peaks. It was truly spectacular - some of the most amazing natural scenery I have been privileged to witness. I walked to the East Peak on narrow steps that only accommodated half my foot with severe drops either side of me only to arrive alone at the most serene and beautiful vista with a little temple at the end of the peak. With hands in shaking prayer position I tried my meagre best to at least say thankyou to whom or whatever would listen for putting on such a magnificent display.

On the fourth day and final day I walked around Xi’an whilst snow drifted from the sky, visting the Bell and Drum towers, The Mosque and the Forest of Steles where most of ancient Chinese literature including one of the first dictionaries, are carved on large stone tablets.

Before I left Xi'an I managed to stage my whole Chinese experience in a four hour Chinese style opera entitled "Mayhew In China". With direct and unashamed references to "Nixon in China" whilst it didn't include an large plane on stage it did however feature this glorious abstract structure for the traffic jam scene.



Mmm ... I think Pepsi must be sponsoring Beijing's 2007 Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras.

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Xmas in Xi'an?

Recollections / highlights of 2006 Christmas Eve / Day included the following…
  • Downloading Christmas songs from late Christmas Eve (I now have a great reggae version of “Santa Claus in Coming To Town” called “Santa Claus is Ska-ing To Town” – tops!)
  • Getting under an hours sleep before having to catch a bus for the airport at 5am Christmas Day.
  • Having our flight delayed by 2 hours.
  • Flying from Hong Kong to Xi’an only to be flown back to Hong Kong to due to extreme fog conditions in Xi’an (5-6 hours in a plane + another 2 to navigate customs exiting and re-entering Hong Kong).
  • Getting a free nights accommodation inc; a free turkey dinner with a cointreau chaser in the Hong Kong Airport Regal Hotel.
  • Seeing Eliza Lovell, Michaela Cantwell, Patrick Duggin and James Edwards on the Australia Channel teaching good business meeting etiquette.
  • Losing my camera somewhere in all of that.
I hope people had a good one as well.

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

More Photos and a Video

One day on a late afternoon I got off the tram a few stops early and explored the Wan Chai streets. Food a plenty and the bananas are a treat.

This chicken was going out back for some special treatment...


It was the first fine day in quite awhile here and there was a blue sky so I skipped work and went to The Peak. Here are some views - actually the centre photo is the actual peak but as you can see it's too full of transmitters to house a lookout.


2ifc (international finance centre) is the tallest in Hong Kong. Here are three views (from left: west face (from Sheung Wan), north face (from Tsim Sha Tsui), south face (from the peak). Whenever I see at night I can't help thinking that up on that glowing top Batman is fighting it out with a dark underworld figure.


At the request of Piet I again sat at the front of a Hong Tram for it's rockin' rollin' ways. This time I videoed the short trip I take from Work (Central) to Home (Wan Chai) each day. Here's the link for it on You Tube if you want to catch it - it's the first time I have uploaded a video there so I hope it looks ok. If not i can show you in style on my return.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4-cnwCGilI